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How to Prevent and Treat Ingrown Hairs

Nobody likes ingrown hairs, they're uncomfortable and unsightly. Here's how you can prevent and treat ingrown hairs - because they happen!
Woman putting lotion on legs

Remember when you were a teen, and you’d grab the nearest metal razor and hack away at your underarms, legs, and bikini line before heading to the pool during the summer? What? You still do? Well, stop! You’re a grown woman now, and there are plenty of alternatives to hair removal besides a rusty razor that won’t leave you with a rash of pimply, stubbly, itchy ingrown hairs in places where no one should be scratching.

Getting To the Root of the Problem

Diagram of an ingrown hair

The first step in preventing pseudofolliculitis (a really fancy name for ingrown hairs) is understanding what they are and, more importantly, why they occur in the first place. According to the Mayo Clinic, they happen when a hair that has been removed curves and penetrates the skin as it begins to grow back. This reentry causes skin irritation, resulting in redness and itching or, in more severe cases, pus-filled bumps and infections.

Because ingrown are more common with curly hair, they tend to pop up around the bikini line and underarms more frequently than, say, the legs or eyebrows, especially in the summer when we attack those areas with more vigor. Fortunately, hair removal has come a long way in the past couple of decades, making it easier to avoid ingrowns whether you DIY it at home or use a professional service like waxing or lasers. Below are a few ways to prevent the problem before it starts.

Shaving 101

Woman shaving her legs

Let’s face it, most of us are guilty of addressing a few errant hairs with a dry razor as we rush out the door to the pool. A quick swipe, and we’re good to go, right? Wrong! We’ve just set ourselves up for an ingrown infestation. Shaving, in general, is a recipe for red bumps, but dry shaving is a recipe for disaster. If you must shave to remove any unwanted hair, especially around your bikini line, take the time to do it right to minimize your chances for irritation. The following steps can help:

  • Exfoliate the area with a mild scrub to loosen the hair.
  • Wet the skin with warm water and lather up with a mild shave cream or gel (no, not the “Old Spice” your husband uses in the shower).
  • Resist the urge to grab your husband’s razor and instead keep a stash of disposables or use one with replaceable blades and make sure to change them at the first sign of dullness.
  • Don’t go against the grain. Shave in the direction of your hair’s growth and rinse the razor after every pass.

Rinse It and Forget It

Over-the-counter hair removal solutions have come a long way since the early days of harsh formulas and noxious smells. Today there are dozens of hair removal creams designed to address normal to sensitive skin and pleasantly scented or completely odorless options. Board-certified dermatologist Karen Lal, MD, explained to Cosmopolitan that the creams use chemicals to “break down the tight bonds in your hair proteins, making them weak enough to break off.” Easy to use, you simply spread it on, wait for the allotted time, and rinse or wipe it off.

However, Lal cautions that choosing the right formula is key. Always do a small patch test before slathering it on to ensure that you don’t have a reaction. Results last longer than shaving, which means less skin irritation and fewer chances for ingrowns.

Wax On Hair Off

Waxing your legs

Waxing and sugaring are highly effective at removing hair at the root and minimizing the potential for ingrowns. Plus, the results can last 4-6 weeks, depending on your hair growth cycle. Yes, you can DIY it, but we recommend leaving it to the professionals for a more thorough job with less risk of burning or irritation.

The downside of both professional waxing and sugaring is that it is more expensive than shaving or other DIY methods. On average, you can spend anywhere from $50-$100+ depending on the area. Plus, it’s time-consuming, with an appointment lasting up to an hour. Finally, and let’s be honest, it’s awkward and unpleasant.

Regardless of your pain tolerance, both waxing and sugaring range from mildly uncomfortable to “OMG, what are you doing down there?” And if you’re extremely modest, you’ll just have to get over it because the technician will be “all up in your business,” so to speak. Overall, though, the benefits outweigh the risks and may even include a reduction in hair growth over time.

Bringing In the Big Guns

Laser hair removal is the costliest, but also one of the most effective, ways to remove hair and gradually reduce regrowth over time. How does it work? The short version is that it uses heat to destroy the hair follicles during their growth stage. However, multiple treatments are usually needed since not all follicles are in the growth stage simultaneously.

Depending on the area you are treating, the process can take a few minutes or as long as an hour, and you may experience some mild discomfort. However, because it doesn’t cut, pull, tug, or rip at the skin, there is virtually no risk of ingrowns or infections. While it’s true that there are some FDA-approved at-home laser options, we strongly recommend leaving this one to the pros to avoid any burning or permanent scarring. Or try Silkaline, an IPL (intense pulsed light) tool that you can use safely at home to stop or reduce hair growth at a more affordable cost.

Treating Ingrowns

Ingrown hairs on legs

If, despite your best efforts, you still wind up with an ingrown, don’t pick at it! You can cause scarring, infection, and other more serious issues. The good news is that the problem will usually resolve on its own. However, if it persists, treat the ingrown with one or more of the following methods:

  • Gently exfoliate the area using a scrub and warm water and rub in a circular motion to try and loosen the trapped hair.
  • Avoid shaving, waxing, or otherwise irritating the area until the ingrown clears up.
  • Try a product specifically designed to treat ingrown like Flamingo’s Ingrown Spot Treatment.
  • If the area doesn’t clear up or begins to ooze or look infected, contact your doctor, who may prescribe a medicated cream or treatment.

Worrying about unsightly bumps should not be part of the carefree days of summer. Taking precautions and treating the issue before it gets out of hand can help your skin stay silky smooth all year long.

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